Joseph William Morgan, founder of Chittleborough & Morgan, sat down with us and graciously allowed us to spend a day in his workshop. We discussed his journey in bespoke tailoring, which started at the age of 15 with a jacket apprenticeship and evolved through various roles with the most notable of tailors.

He highlights the revolutionary impact of Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton on Savile Row, emphasising their unique styles and their ability to express individuality. Joe also discusses what it means to create a bespoke suit and stresses the importance of craftsmanship over ready-to-wear products.

Joe has been a close friend and supporter of Gaziano & Girling since the very early days. He is one of the reasons why we are still on Savile Row today. Not to mention he’s one of the most approachable and humble gentlemen we’ve ever had the pleasure of knowing. We were delighted to spend the day with Joe in his workshop at 12 Savile Row and to reminisce with Tony about the early days of the brand.

Hi Joe! Great to see you.

And you, it’s wonderful to see you!

Could you introduce yourself and your tailoring house to our readers?

Certainly. My name is Joseph Morgan from the bespoke tailoring company Chittleborough & Morgan. As a company we try very hard for… can I say perfection? Because that’s what we aim for. We’re trying to get the excellence of bespoke tailoring as high as it can be and compete with France and Italy and the rest of the world.

You’ve been in the industry for many years. Can you tell us a bit about how your journey in bespoke tailoring started?

I left school very early at 15 and I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do. But my dad knew someone who worked for Kilgour. So he took me along to see this fellow, this tailor. And he said, ‘at the moment we don’t need anybody, but I do know somebody that does.’ So I started a tailoring jacket apprenticeship, and loved it!

After that I went to train as an assistant cutter with Dennis Wilkinson. They made clothes for Harold Macmillan and all the other MPs of the time, and even for the Kennedys. So I went from being in a workshop environment to being introduced to all these gentlemen.

After that, I went to work at Jarvis & Hamilton, which was also a great experience. For the boy from the East End, going on to meeting all these very distinguished aristocrats – It was just remarkable.

You were a big part of the evolution of style on Savile Row in the 70s, as part of ‘The Nutters’. Can you tell us about how you ended up working with Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton?

Well, while I was at Jarvis & Hamilton somebody said, ‘Why don’t you go and speak to Tommy Nutter? They’re looking for an assistant cutter, and they’re very progressive, and the world’s changing.’ So I did, and in doing so I went from wearing a stiff collar and a two inch lapel to Tommy and Edward, and at that stage they were creating five inch lapels and a whole different look. They changed the world, they changed Savile Row for the better.

So things were very different with Tommy and Edward, to where you’d worked before?

Yes. At the bespoke companies I’d worked at before, you’d finish the coat, you’d finish the suit, then the customer would pop it on and that’s it, off you go. But with Tom and Edward, unless it read that ‘this is our product’, they would alter it.

You had [the likes of] Mick Jagger, Paul McCartney, Diana Ross having these very different clothes. They gave men the ability to express themselves. But they were accepted on Savile Row primarily because they did the same quality of work as everybody else, but they stylised their model, which they’re still doing today and we are doing today.

Tommy and Edward changed the world. They changed Savile Row for the better, which was very exciting. They revolutionised how men could express themselves with their clothes.

What makes a bespoke suit by Chittleborough & Morgan so special?

When one looks at a Bespoke suit coming from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s, style plays a major part, but now we are competing with ready-to-wear where the product is very hanger friendly. It’s good to look at. You look at the fabric and think, ‘well, that fabric is not quite so good, the make isn’t quite so good, but it’s instant I can put it on and walk out the store.’ And it may not fit, it may not look that good, but the brand is what they’re telling everybody it’s all about. We don’t do that.

What we try to do is give a gentleman or lady a product that is handcrafted, that looks the best that we can make it look. We have a very straight shoulder line, very close, high arm holes, a nice long line to the waist. We always cut a side body, which gives flare and makes for a very defined look. The suit we produce is stylised and has lots of presence.

What does it mean to be a Savile Row tailor?

In tailoring, if you want to be the best, you have to work at it. You have to provide a product that people want to be part of.

Savile Row has a heritage that we want to move forward. To do that, it has to have excellence. And this is what we’re driving very hard to create.

Everything is made in house, and this is very important to us. Because you can produce cheaper products elsewhere in the world, but it’s at the sacrifice of your own industry.

People look at the clothes that they’ve had made cheaply abroad and it just doesn’t last. There are suits we made in the 70s that are coming back to us for alterations today, because those customers’ children and grandchildren want to wear them today. How cool is that?

Does Savile Row have a future?

Yes, yes we do!

You know, we have young people that are embracing the culture of what we did in the past and taking it to the next level. And we’re training young people in bespoke tailoring and giving them a future, which I think is also really important.

So yes, I think Savile Row will be here for a long, long time.

In 2006 you welcomed Gaziano & Girling into Chittleborough & Morgan to share your space on Savile Row. Why did you think they made a good fit?

I first met Tony when he was working for another shoe company. One of our clients had asked them to make me a pair of bespoke shoes. Tony didn’t have a lot of influence on it and I was given somebody else to look after me. The shoe that was made for me was bespoke – beautifully made – but the styling wasn’t really what I wanted (and I knew what style was about).

And I’ve never worn those shoes.

When we developed with Tony & Dean, the essence of what we do, they do, and they stylise their shoes. I was very comfortable with that. And they complement our clothes and hopefully our clothes complement their shoes. But with Gaziano & Girling, Tony and Dean have revolutionised the shoe world.

They’ve allowed men to express themselves through their shoes.

Essentially, what we do with our clothes – the craft and the care we apply – they do with their shoes. They stylise their shoes just as we stylise our suits. I was very much onboard with that. So I said why not come and have your showroom here? And we went from there.

It’s been 10 years since Gaziano & Girling were based at Chittleborough & Morgan and in honour of our friendship, and to mark how grateful we are for all the support you’ve given us over the years, we thought it was about time we created a shoe and name it after you.

Wow, that’s very gracious. I’m truly honoured. For me, the energy that you and Dean brought to the brand is what we try to do with ours. And it’s very important that craftsmanship, style and elegance is brought through into shoes and what we do with clothes. I feel honored, actually honored, to be presented with this sort of product. It’s beyond anybody’s expectations.

Thank you.

You can contact Joe and his team on 020 7437 6850

Chittleborough & Morgan, 12 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PQ

You can watch the interview and the chat between Joe and Tony Gaziano below.

If you wish to order the same shoe we presented to Joe in the video, please use the specifications below and then add any of the usual extras we offer through our Made to Order service.

Joe’s model specifications

Model: Morgan

Upper: Black Calf

Lining: Black

Toe Shape: TG73

Sole: Single Oak Bark Leather

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Meet Mickael Korausch, founder and owner of La Bowtique, a company specialising in bowties and everything Black Tie. As a self-professed Black Tie specialist, Mickael is fast becoming one of the world’s most authoritative figures on modern black tie etiquette and recently released his first book on the subject: Modern Black Tie. His book and his bow ties are available in our Savile Row store as well as online at labowtique.com.

Frustrated by the lack of quality bow ties available on a shopping trip many years ago, Mickael simply started making his own. Starting with a simple sketch on a piece of paper, he quickly learned the skills required to make his own. Now he makes arguably the best quality Ready to Wear and Bespoke bow ties anywhere in the world. He has slowly built a unique and close-knit global community of Black Tie enthusiasts and through his recent book launch has pulled together the most comprehensive guide to dressing for black tie.

For all of his years wearing black tie and dressing for all manner of occasions, the one shoe Mickael doesn’t have in his wardrobe, despite almost every single dress code guide across the world saying is the number 1 pair every guy should own, is the classic Black Cap Toe Oxford.

So it felt only right when we invited Mickael to take part in the Shoe Talks series that a pair of Black Oxfords was a must for him to fill that gap in the collection.

There’s not much that hasn’t been said about a pair of Black Oxfords, but the small tweaks we made for Mickael’s pair make it personal and perfectly fitting for the proportions of his foot. A slightly higher heel gives the arch and heel a slightly more bespoke and sculptured aesthetic and some additional room around the instep to allow the laces to close a little neater than the generic size would allow ensure the perfect fit straight out of the box.

There’s no doubt a pair of Black Oxfords are an absolute classic, they have a place in every wardrobe. For Mickael, this probably won’t be the last pair of shoes he commissions for his various black-tie outfits, but it certainly ticks all the boxes should he ever feel the need to keep it elegant and classic.

The Oxford is also one of the perfect templates to begin a Made To Order project. Whilst the standard model is as classic as they come, the ability to change the stitching to brogueing, change the leather to something more casual, change the toe shape and sole, there’s so much scope to come up with multiple variations that you could make enough combinations to last you a lifetime.

Michael’s model specifications

Model: Oxford

Upper: Black Calf

Lining: Black

Toe Shape: MH71

Sole: Single Oak Bark Leather

Other: Added 2 heel stacks and extra room on the instep.

You can come and see some of Mickael’s Ready to Wear bow tie collection in our Savile Row store, or visit his online store for his full collection. Want something for your own black tie outfit or occasion? Simply come and visit us or give us a call and we will happily assist you.

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Meet Michael Symons, client advisor in our Savile Row store, creator of the Shoe Talks series and an integral part of our team in Savile Row. Michael talks us through his Menswear journey from Liverpool to London, and how his appreciation for the craft of shoemaking has brought him to Gaziano & Girling.

Michael joined the Gaziano & Girling team in early 2022, after almost 20 years in the retail industry. Most of his years have been focussed on managing large flagship stores and large retail teams for some very well-known companies. After working with Simon (Jones, Shoe Talks Episode 1) several years ago and becoming good friends, it was an easy choice to come and join forces once again.

His chosen model in this episode of Shoe Talks: the Hove, is as sleek and elegant as a Derby can get. A Derby is by nature a casual model, not something you typically see being chosen for a formal wardrobe. But with the changes to the work wardrobe and the evolution of the ‘uniform’ for an office or a job requiring formal attire, the Hove ticks all the boxes.

Michael’s chosen MTO for this episode shows the Hove in it’s natural state; a casual, hybrid, day-off or walk-to-work configuration. Paired with our brand new Brooklands sole option, he has made a shoe that is perfect for that off-duty, walk to the pub on a weekend feeling.

We’ve seen many example of this model being made in much more formal configurations, from Black Calf to a soft and subtle English Grain on a Square Deco last, changing the aesthetic all together to elevate it’s formality. Don’t be afraid to pair a Derby with a well-tailored suit. The variety of fabrics and patterns adorning the silhouette’s of the best dressed on Savile Row allow for a Derby to find it’s place in any formal wardrobe.

Michael’s model specifications

Model: Hove

Upper: Mink Suede

Lining: Natural

Toe Shape: MH71

Sole: Dark Brown Brooklands

In addition to the standard MTO options, if you do this on the Brooklands sole, you can choose the colour of the welt, the eyelets, the laces and the stitching on the upper. Visit the Brooklands section of our website here to see what options are available.

Visit Savile Row next time you’re in London, ask to meet Michael or email him directly at michael@gazianogirling.com, you’ll certainly see him wearing his Hove’s in the store and he’ll be happy to assist you in customising your own pair.

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Meet Rico Fernandez, client advisor in our Savile Row store, and advocate for the well dressed gentleman. Rico discusses who influenced his affinity for classic menswear and unboxes an elegant addition to his Gaziano & Girling collection: The Astaire.

Rico joined Gaziano & Girling in early 2022, starting his career in tailoring prior to joining the Savile Row team. His passion for classic menswear, influenced by figures from the ’20s and ’30s along with a penchant for anything Bond, Rico has a look and image that belies his youth and is helping carry the beacon for the tailoring industry.

His chosen model in this episode of Shoe Talks: the Astaire, is another model in our collection which deserves much more attention. Rico’s chosen MTO shows the Astaire in it’s most elegant of lights, and elevates the pattern from your average clunky, casual, brogued wingtip (or as the New York Times once called the Brogue “the Crocs of the 18th Century”, in reference to the original brogueing providing a drainage function) to a contemporary silhouette which is sleek and sophisticated and one that firmly cements its place as a must-have in the modern wardrobe.

To differentiate from the ubiquitous wingtip derby, Rico chose the Astaire with it’s sharp Adelaide facing in black calf to formalise the model.

The Astaire offers a surprising amount of variety when choosing this as your MTO model. From choosing a slightly rounder toe shape in a soft, supple suede with a Wensum sole, or creating a spectator with a combination of leather colours, the Astaire really is a model that can fit into every wardrobe.

Rico’s model specifications

Model: Astaire

Upper: Black Calf

Lining: Natural

Toe Shape: Square Deco

Sole: Single Oak Bark Leather

In addition to the standard MTO options, you can add a medallion, we have 8 options to choose from. We can advise on the most appropriate for the size of the toe area.

You can also customise the style of brogueing on this model, we have several styles of perforations to choose from, or you can choose an “austerity” version with a single or double stitch to replace the brogueing. These are options we will advise you on through our sales team in Savile Row.

Visit Savile Row next time you’re in London, ask to meet Rico or email him directly at rico@gazianogirling.com, you’ll certainly see him wearing his Astaire’s in the store and he’ll be happy to assist you in customising your own pair of Astaire’s, but don’t expect to see any of the same dance moves.

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Meet Simon Jones, manager of our only store in the world on Savile Row, as he talks about his journey into the footwear industry, and watch as he unboxes the latest pair in his Gaziano & Girling shoe collection: a Chukka Boot.

The Chukka is a style that we feel deserves more appreciation, and one that provides such a high level of versatility and functionality for something seen to be at the more casual end of the shoe spectrum.

It’s inspiration comes from the riding boots worn by Polo players in India, with the British military adapting this and wearing a more casual interpretation of these riding boots during WWII.

A ‘chukka’ is also the name for a period of play in the game of Polo.

In footwear terms, it’s an ankle-high boot in suede or leather with open lacing, 2 or 3 eyelets and a rubber or leather sole. But with a few tweaks, it can be so much more.

Our Made To Order programme has 2 options for a Chukka boot, the Arran and the Wallis, and in our first episode, Simon identified a clear gap in his collection, which the Chukka easily fills and adds another option to many outfits.

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